Norway trip

Day 6: Kinsarvik to Linköping

2006-07-16T15:06:00.000+08:00

If things worked out well, the journey back to Linköping would take us through 850km. Eventually, it turned out to be a 950km journey lasting 16.5 hours. I was well prepared for the long drive back to Sweden. However, I didn't expect the trip home to last us that long.

Unlike previous days, we weren't rushing for time. We knew that at the end of the day, we would reach our hostel in Linköping. Without the hassle of going through the checking-in procedure, it was just a question of what time we would reach our destination. Reaching our rooms at 1am was beyond our wildest dreams though.

Being our last day in Norway, we were geared up for stopping at every possible stop along the way. It didn't matter what time we would return back to Sweden. What was more important was to spend the last few moments together before we parted ways.

Tyssedal was our first stop. This was the site of a granite water dam. I couldn't exactly remember the details but I vaguely recalled as being the largest granite water dam in Norway.

The granite dam in Tyssedal.

Lacking tourist information, I thought that the dam functioned as a hydro-electric power plant, judging from the numerous power cables running through the area as well as a transformer unit located just beside the dam. Upon closer inspection, the reservoir was mostly frozen over, which probably meant that the power plant was shut down in the winter.

Folgefonna glacier

Odda sits at the end of Hardangerfjord. It is also where we were eagerly anticipating our visit to a glacier, Folgefonna glacier, one of the largest glacier in Europe.

The normal route to the glacier was closed due to the damage to the road sustained by severe flooding in October the year before. However, we were recommended to take another route which would enable us to have a view of the other side of the glacier. This would require us to embark through a tunnel approximately 15km long.

Taking this advice from the tourist information centre, we took the long montonous drive through the tunnel. Upon emerging from the other side of the mountain, we came upon a toll booth. A payment was required to pass through. There was no other way to skip pass the booth. The only way to avoid it is to turn back.

Tight on budget and running out of time, we decided to turn back through the tunnel again.

That's a total of 30km drive through dim conditions. I thought that the tourist information should have warned us beforehand about the impending road toll.

Although we had missed a great opportunity to see a glacier up close, a lookout point along the highway offered us a great view from across the lake. However, due to the vast distance from the glacier, Folgefonna merely looked like a snow-laden valley instead.

We left Odda and began our drive through the rugged valley. The highway gained altitude through Hardangervidda, one of the largest mountain plataeu in Norway.

The twin falls of Låtefossen

Låtefossen loomed into view as we neared the peak of the mountain plateau. The waterfall is conspicuous along the highway but the lack of signs meant that we almost missed the waterfall. Hidden just round a bend, I almost missed the waterfall since the car was hitting 100kmh.

The waterfall is one of the most spectacular waterfall in Norway. In summer, Låtefossen is transformed into a roaring twin waterfall. Since winter was still lingering around, the waterfall was little more than a trickle.

Hardangervidda towers above the snowline of the Norwegian landscape. Due to the harsh weather conditions and the undulating terrain, the highway bored through numerous tunnels. My eyes were constantly straining to keep up with the alternating dazzling snow and the dim dark conditions of the tunnels. As the sun tried to peep in between the clouds, the entire landscape was transformed into a terrain of dazzlingly reflecting mirror.

Snowy white. The poles are meant to be road guides if the road is shrouded with snow. I think.

As our Volvo zoomed into tunnels, I was temporarily blinded by the sheer darkness. Likewise when the car emerged from the dark realms and plunged into the blinding white landscape, my enlarged iris was trying hard to adjust itself itself.

262km away from Oslo

After driving for a few hours, I was too mentally tired to carry on. Yi-Chi took over when we were 262km away from Oslo. From this point, we were probably still 700km away from Linköping. This wasn't good news at all since it was almost 2pm and a vast distance still separated us from Oslo.

As I dozed off at the back of the car, the hours drifted away. I was jolted awake by the Volvo drifting from side to side. I opened my eyes and was glad to see traffic slowly building up.

We must be near Oslo, I thought. It was also time for me to take over the wheel.

No sooner had I taken over the front seat, we came upon a toll booth. In a haste to return back to Sweden, I had forgotten to take a detour which would allow us to bypass Oslo. The toll booth in Bergen is automated, which takes a picture of your licence plate number. However, the toll booth in Oslo is manned. This means that we had to halt our vehicle and made a direct cash payment.

After parting with 20 Norwegian crowns, we decided to hit the city centre. It was a whirlwind tour of Oslo which barely lasted for half an hour. It was around 6pm, the supposedly peak traffic period. The city centre wasn't as lively as I had expected to be. As a modern looking city, I wasn't exactly very intrigued. Oslo gave me an un-European feel.

As we left Oslo bound for the borders, another toll booth loomed into view. Another 20 Norwegian crowns into the authorities' coffers.

At the Norway-Sweden border. Drivers are reminded about the speed limits and the need to turn on headlights at all times.

We reached the border at around 8pm. But we were still hours away from Linköping. A fog had enveloped and we had to rely on road reflectors to negotiate through the dark.

The traffic was gradually thinning out as we progressed into the night. Most of the time, driving with a high beam was essential. However, basic courtesy comes into play by switching to normal headlights when an incoming vehicle appears.

We switched drivers a number of times as it was doubly tired to drive at night.

Finally, at 1am, we reached Linköping. It was the end of our 3000km road trip. Everything felt so familiar. It was my second home for the past 2 years after all. Somehow, I was in euphoria. After a long tiring drive, I was looking forward to a well-deserved rest.

Dread was overwhelming me at the same time. I had only 2 days left in Linköping before I headed back to Singapore.

Day 5: Bergen to Kinsarvik

2006-07-16T14:55:00.000+08:00

A slight drizzle descended on Bergen as we left Askøy. I had a bad feeling when temperatures dropped and snow fluttered from the heavens.

The night before, the landlord recommended Steinsdalsfossen as part of our itinerary. What makes this special as it allows visitors to walk right behind a waterfall and experience something unique. Located just after the town of Øystese, the waterfall was easy to spot as it is conspicuous from the highway.

The default mission kicked into perfect gear when we reached Steinsdalsfossen: toilet break. A souvenir shop is situated just right in front of the waterfall. Unfortunately, the shop will only be opened in one month's time. Skirting around the shop, we found a toilet just by its side. When we tried the handle, to our dismay, it was locked.

Even the toilet is closed for the winter!!

Desperate times call for desperate measures. We approached a private house.

"Would you mind if we use your toilet? The toilet down at the waterfall is closed." We pleaded, hoping to draw some sympathy from the owner.

"The toilet? Ok!" She gave a slight chuckle.

We could be the first tourists ever to visit her house for the toilet!

Spring had barely started but ample water had fed Steinsdalsfossen with enough glamour. The light snow failed to dampen our spirits as we trekked behind the waterfall. The water flow was light. We weren't greeted by thunderous buckets of water cascading down to the base of the waterfall. Snow had accumulated midway, reminding us that the ghost of winter was still lingering around.

Steinsdalsfossen from the bottom (L) and the view from behind the waterfall (R).

Another dirt track led us right to the top of the waterfall where we were rewarded with a panaromic view of the region. However, the valleys were shrouded with a veil of fog, making the horizon hardly perceivable.

Heading back to the road, the highway soon joined up with Hardangerfjord. The route kisses the shoreline and the views were scenic. Despite the cloudy weather, we could see the snow-capped mountains rising majestically from the waters. Plenty of rest points along the way provided us with spectacular panaromic views.

The highway kisses the shoreline.

We were right ahead of schedule when we reached the town of Bruravik. A total fee of 135 Norwegian crowns was paid before we embarked onto the ferry. I made a quick count and the ferry was transporting around 20 vehicles. The ferry was double-decked. The upper deck was full so we had to park our Volvo on the lower deck.

Driving up the ramp towards the ferry.

Switching off the engine, we saw signs onboard the ferry reminding passengers and drivers alike to alight from our vehicles. That make sense. In an event of a possible capsize, passengers can escape more effectively.

However, most vehicles on the upper deck chose to ignore the warning signs. The upper deck was an open air and nobody wanted to stand outside and be subjected from biting cold winds.

The trip across the fjord was a quick 10-minute trip. Soon we were on the opposite bank of Hardangerfjord.

View from the ferry

Vøringfossen, near Eidfjord, is about 20mins drive away from Brimnes. It's one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Norway. The entire stretch of valley is filled with cascading waterfalls thundering into the abyss.

Two lookout points offer visitors a fantastic view of the waterfall. We drove to the one and only hotel in Fossli which overlooks the entire valley. Snow was piling on both sides of the highway and I had a niggling feeling that we would be expecting a frozen waterfall.

The carpark was supposedly closed since the entire place was covered with snow. By then, I was pretty sure we would be greeted by frozen waterfalls. Parking somewhere accessible, we trekked in the falling snow to the lookout point.

Snow had accumulated a lot from the past few months of harsh winter. Apparently, some people were already ahead of us, judging from the fresh footprints in the snow. The prints were deep and in some places, the snow reached my knee level.

The whole place was quiet and I could only hear our heavy breaths as we navigated through the thick snow. I strained my ears for the waterfall but failed to detect even the faintest hint.

Soon, the valley loomed into view and what we saw was what I had been expecting all along...

The supposedly valley of waterfalls became frozen in time, literally (L). A frozen Vøringfossen (R).

The whole stretch of valley was literally frozen. It was kind of interesting to know how a waterfall, packed with so much kinetic energy, could be frozen during the depths of the winter. One could imagine how much the temperatures had plunged in order to cause such an effect. Like a frozen picture frame, the entire valley seemed to be locked in time. Temperatures were hovering just below the freezing point. The ice had started to melt since we could hear water trickling from Vøringfossen.

The girls were busy snapping pictures. They were enthralled by the sight of frozen waterfalls. Something which they had never seen before.

With plenty of time to spare, we decided to stop by another lookout point of Vøringfossen. The carpark was located further down the highway, a mere 3-minute drive away.

This time, again, the carpark was blanketed in snow, leaving only the driveway accessible. I thought it was dangerous to leave the car on the driveway since it was too near the highway. It posed a hazard to any vehicles trying to gain access to the carpark. Hence, I decided to drive the car into the snow-packed carpark, not realising that I had made a huge mistake.

As soon as we stepped out of the Volvo, I noticed that the snowline had reached the bottom of the car. Shrugging off any possible problems, we headed straight to the lookout point.

This lookout point was worse than the one which we had visited earlier. The track was so thick with snow that manoeuvring through was so tiring. In the end, we decided to return back.

Stepping back into the car, I ignited the engine and engaged the reverse gear. Initially, the car Volvo managed to lunge a few metres. We were barely 10 metres away from the exit when the wheels slipped in the snow and the vehicle was painfully inching backwards. Soon, the wheels dug deeper into the snow and we were stuck. I tried to move the vehicle forward, steering the wheel in big arcs, hoping to dislodge from the snow. Unfortunately, it refused to budge. The gears were alternated but it was to no avail.

We are in deep shit this time, I thought to myself, cursing silently under my breath.

We got out of the car, put on our gloves and began scrapping the snow away from the wheels in order to improve traction. No shovels, so we used our bare hands.

After some frantic digging, I stepped back into the car and tried my luck. Nothing improved.

This can go on forever and we'll still be stuck, I thought.

Traffic on the highway was sparse but cars would pass by every few minutes. As we continued to dig, Wan-Yu flagged down a vehicle for help.

A group of Norwegians, probably on a road trip, drove in to help upon hearing our ordeal. One of them was curious as to where we came from. Naturally, Wan-Yu would only declare Taiwan. When he learnt of our nationality, he exclaimed, "So you drove all the way from Taiwan to get stuck in snow?"

I knew he was only joking. But considering the state that our car was in at that moment, I was only more interested in getting our car out of the snow.

The young Norwegian driver stepped up to help us. With enough manpower, we pushed the car and managed to nudge the car a couple of metres.

Then, one of the Norwegians, with a camera in hand, snapped a few pictures of the car, as he chuckled at us. Apparently, he found this extremely funny.

After a few attempts, our Volvo was still quite some distance away from the exit. Giving up, the Norwegian driver decided to drive his car up to the nearest residence, hoping to borrow a steel cable so that he could tow our car out.

Soon, he returned... empty-handed. However, he had assisted us in calling for the emergency vehicle. The catch was, we had to pay approximately 200 to 300 Norwegian crowns for the services rendered. Help would only arrive in 1.5 hours' time.

Thanking them, the Norwegians left. We had already wasted so much time trying to get our Volvo out of the snow and I refused to idle around while waiting for 1.5 hours for help to arrive. We were back on our heels digging out the snow once more.

My hands were already numbed by the cold and we didn't seem to be getting anywhere. I got up, stretched my back, and scanned the highway.

A van drove in when he sensed that we needed help. Soon, 2 more cars drove in, seemingly wanting to offer their help as well.

Boy, I love the Norwegians. They are so willing to help. However, the 2 cars drove away when they realised that the van alone could do the job.

Out stepped a family of six. I approached the driver and requested for help. He shuffled through his van and retrieved a nylon rope. Tying the rope to both vehicles, the first attempt was a failure when the nylon snapped. I had engaged our car in neutral gear when the reverse gear should be the proper.

The second attempt was a triumph. A sense of elation overcame us. We were stuck for 1.5 hours and we were glad that our Volvo was able to move again. We couldn't thank them enough.

The Norwegian family left before us. Soon, we were on our way to Kinsarvik, our last night for the trip. Before we commenced, we made a stop at the residence where the young Norwegian had called for emergency help earlier. It was actually an old man who had indirectly aided us but he had already called off the help. He had been watching the action all along. When he saw that we had safely retrieved our car, he was one step ahead of us by kindly helping us to call off the emergency service.

A great amount of money saved. To think that he's living in such an isolated region, I reckoned that it must be the most interesting event he had ever witnessed in such a long time!

It was a coincidence when we met the Norwegian family again at one of the lookout points. Out of sheer fun and for memory's sake, we decided to take a group photo with them. It was also another way to express our appreciation for them.

A group photo with the family who helped us a great deal. The person who took this photo was one of the Norwegians.

Approximately 45 minutes drive later, we finally reached Kinsarvik, absolutely knackered. The amount of energy that we had spent getting the car out of the snow had drained our enthusiasm.

Our cabin overlooked Hardangerfjord. The whole place was pretty much deserted. The low season was a contributing factor to the low occupancy rate of the cabins. Just 2 cabins away, some Spanish were punctuating the tranquility with their rowdiness.

Our cabin in Kinsarvik, providing us with excellent views of Hardangerfjord.

That night, while having dinner, I looked out of the window, peering towards the fjord. Although extremely lethargic, I was immensing myself in deep thoughts.

It was our last night in Norway and I was dreading about the prospects of having to return back to Singapore. I had enjoyed my stay in Europe and this Norwegian trip was one of my best trips so far. Somehow, I hated the fact that I had to leave my friends behind in Sweden soon. Although MSN and email could keep the friendship alive, I doubted that it will ever have the same degree of passion.

Day 4: Bergen

2006-07-16T14:54:00.000+08:00

Established in the 11th century, Bergen is Norway's second largest city. It's a small quaint city with its own charm, nicely tucked away in a little corner of the Norwegian fjords. Due to its location, Bergen is constantly exposed to sea breeze which whips in from the Norwegian sea.

Being a Monday, we were caught in the traffic rush hour. Parking in the city posed a problem since I had expected fees to be expensive. A wise idea would be to approach the tourist information centre for advice.

A quick enquiry proved useful. The parking is located at the edge of the city centre, well within walking distance to the harbour.

"You can park here," the lady at the tourist information, while using her finger to draw an imginary circle on the map, "It's very cheap. It costs only 75 crowns for a full day parking"

Thanks! That's S$18.75!

The fish market in Bergen is one of the highlights of the city. Selling all sorts of seafood, fresh salmon was on our agenda. Prawns were so fresh that you could actually remove the whole flesh without breaking the shell!

As it was still the winter season, only 4 stores were opened. Prices were comparable and the vendors refused to bow to bargains. In the end, we bought a big chunk of salmon priced at xxx crowns.

I can't remember the price but I know it was reasonable.

On the other hand, souvenirs were expensive. Scouting the shops along Bryggen, we realised that prices were competitively expensive. I thought the souvenirs on offer were much more interesting than those sold in Sweden.

As usual, finding free toilets posed a great headache. It had always been the default mission on backpacking trips. In Singapore, you can easily find toilets located on every floor in shopping centres. In Bergen, we went to a big shopping mall, only to locate one small miserable toilet.

And you need to pay 10 crowns!

Bloody hell! S$2.50 to use the toilet. I demand my rights to pee for free. It's absolutely outrageous to pay such a high price for a short usage. It violates basic human rights!

We ended up using a handicapped toilet in a fast food toilet.

I don't usually do that, but my bladder was bursting at its seams. So no choice.

Most shops were closed by 4pm. Seeing no point in staying in the city, we decided to drive up to a high point in the suburb of Skansemyren.

Fantoft stav church

Churches in Norway are especially unique in its own way. A one glance, it looks more like a Japanese temple than a church. For a moment, I thought I was in Japan. However, bearing in mind Vikings once ruled Norway and not the Samurais, you just have to accept that it's a church after all.

Later in the evening, when we were back in our warm cosy little house, the landlord popped by over, with a bag of wood.

"Do you need any more wood?" she asked with a wide smile on her face.

We had already finished our wood for the fire-place the night before. Thanking her, I grabbed over the bag of wood.

Being our last night in Bergen, I decided to ask her about our route to Kinsarvik. A ferry across Hardangerfjord was imperative since taking a huge detour through the moutains will take hours and cut into our budget. I wouldn't want to pay for the high costs of the petrol.

A check with her revealed that taking a ferry from Kvanndal to Kinsarvik wasn't ideal as the timings didn't exactly suit our itinerary. Missing the ferry would mean that we had to wait for 3 hours before the next ferry would arrive. Instead, we were advised to take the ferry from Bruravik, arriving at Brimnes. The ferry comes in at every 20 minute interval and the whole journey across the fjord takes only 10mins.

The landlord deserves the best possible award from me. All along, she had been very helpful with our enquiries. I'll definitely recommend that place to stay if they were to visit Bergen by car.

Day 3: Bergen (Sognefjord)

2006-07-16T14:53:00.000+08:00

The accomation in Bergen was by far the best in my numerous visits around Europe. Although the house was small, it was practically fitted with everything essential that you need. A laundry, a backyard, a fire-place, a kitchen, beds on the loft, etc. Small yet cosy, the floors are superbly water-heated. Looking out from the living room window, it offered unobstructed views of the sea.

There's one drawback though: The ceiling of the kitchen is pretty low. Once cooking commences, the kitchen feels claustrophobically uncomfortable.

We had the whole white house to ourselves (left). The view of the sea from the living room (right).

The skies were clear. Luck was on our side as Bergen is notorious for having rainy days. A perfect day for driving. We embarked on E39, heading north in the direction of Sognefjord.

The setting of our accomodation meant that each time we left the island, a pass through Bergen was needed in order to get to other places. This also translated to having to pay the road toll of 70 Norwegian crowns (S$17.50). No qualms about that as our car was rented in Sweden. Nevertheless, each time we passed through the toll gate, I had a slight skeptism that, eventually, a bill from the Norwegian authorities would be sent to Singapore, demanding that a prompt payment be made.

As soon as we left Bergen, the urbanised landscape gave way to spectacular nature. Mountains rose amid the backdrop of numerous fjords. The blue tinge of the sky reflected perfectly in the lakes, forming symmetrical images.

On the mountain plateau.

A chain of mountains separated Bergen from Sognefjord. Traversing the mountain plateau was necessary since alternative routes will take too long.

Soon, the highway was above the snowline. Not a single cloud obstructed the sky, meaning that it was extremely dazzling to the eyes. The snow reflected so much of the sun that wearing shades were probably a better idea.

In order to cut down travelling time, numerous tunnels were bored through the mountains. The suddenly contrast in the light intensity was not at all a welcoming sight since the eyes need some time to adjust to the different conditions. It was both equally annoying and tiring to my eyes. However, one is easily transfixed by the snowy landscape, feeling absolutely at peace with Mother Nature.

Snaking our way to Sognefjord.

A slow descent ensued as the highway swung towards sea level. Sognefjord loomed in view as we emerged from the snowy winterland. From our high vintage point, the highway snaked its way to the fjord, providing us with splendid views at each turn.

Spectacular Sognefjord.

A dead end greeted us when we reached the town of Oppedal. In order to get to the other side of the fjord, taking a ferry to the opposite town of Lavik was necessary. Not wanting to pay the ferry toll, we decided to take a dirt road which skirts along Sognefjord.

Leading to the farms. Small houses dotted the sides of the dirt track. The whole valley is probably shared by a few farmers.

An insight to the Norwegian farming landscape was interesting. Being the late winter season, crops were yet to be sowed and the no cattle were in sight. Hence, farms looked pretty bare, with a few tractors rumbling about, probably in preparation for the spring. The farms were deafening quiet. I tried to strain my ears, hoping to hear a lamb bleating in the distance. All I could hear was the sound of rocks crushing underneath our car and the engine revving against the backdrop.

Just a curious thought. Since summer only lasts for a couple of months, this means that the farmers can only afford to work during this narrow period. Most farmers have their own cars for convenience sake. Thus, during the harvesting period, they must have earned a lot in order to provide themselves some sort of subsistence in order to permit them to tide over the remaining months when Norway is in deep freeze.

One way track on the farms

These dirt tracks leading to the farms are usually one way. Reversing the vehicle will be quite a challenge if there is another vehicle heading in the opposite direction. Paved for the farmers, the dirt roads are not meant for the public. However, inquisitive tourists will tend to do the otherwise.

An inland lake. A reservoir for the farmers. We were blessed with perfect weather on that day.

Inland lake provided the farmers an ample water supply. Fed by waterfalls from the melting snow, a constant supply is guaranteed. A river snakes through the lush coniferous forest, eventually joining with the fjords.

Bryggen. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Leaving behind Sognefjord, it was too early to call it a day. Hence, an impromptu decision was made and we did a brief tour of Bergen. Bryggen was undoubtedly our choice of destination.

With a history stretching back to a few centuries, it has endured many fires. Not suprisingly, since all of them are made from wood. Most of the houses have peculiar structures, tilting slightly in defiance against gravity. Today, Bryggen mainly houses gift shops, restaurants and museums.

A mere 25min drive away to our house turned out to be a 2hr torture ride back home. The roads were dark and the absence of street lamps served to make things worse. Somehow, all of us have forgotten the route back home and amazingly, all of us missed the road sign back to our house.

I began to suspect something was wrong when we crossed a bridge which I didn't remember crossing it at all earlier in the morning. Sensing something amiss, I checked the map, only to realise that we had miss our destination by almost 10km!

Since there's only one access to Askøy (the name of the island in which our house is located), there was no way in which we would have unknowingly left the island. Turning back, we were soon back for our dinner.

A very late dinner at 11pm.

Day 2: Lærdal to Bergen

2006-07-16T14:52:00.000+08:00

Lærdal is situated right by Sognefjord, the longest fjord in the world. Its prime location makes it a good stopover point for people driving from Oslo to Bergen. The town is flanked by mountains on both sides and blessed with scenic nature.

Our cabin in Lærdal is furnished by IKEA. The whole interior is very comfortable and cosy. One bedroom is located on the ground floor while another bedroom is situated on the loft of the cabin. Heating is excellent in the wooded cabin. It was so warm at one point at night that I was sleeping without the blanket.

Light snow fell in the morning and the girls woke up earlier than the alarm clock. For the rest of the trip, the alarm clock was ringing incessantly without avail.

After breakfast, when the snow subsided, we stepped out of the cabin. The air was cool and crisp.

Our cabin

The location of our cabin was perfect. When we arrived the night before, the darkness concealed the spectacular scenery. It was late winter but I could imagine the magnificent landscape when the trees and flowers are in full bloom.

Check-out time was 12pm. It was only 10am so I suggested taking road 53 which will take us to another part of Sognefjord. I thought 2 hours would be enough for us to rush back just in time for check-out.

Bored by the monotonously flat landscape in Sweden, we were captivated by the sights of the fjord in Norway. Road signs, warning us of reindeers, were posted everywhere along the roads. Except for the reindeer sightings we had the night before, we didn't have the luck to meet any of these gentle creatures.

White was the theme.

Unfortunately, unknown to us, road 53 took us to a high mountain plateau. At such high altitudes, snow was still abundant. Despite the fact that the roads were accessible, bad conditions hindered our progress. Everything was white. The only striking difference was the grey asphalt of the road.

After what seemed like eternity, we were nearing check-out time but we were still stuck at a distance of 60km away. After a brief call, we informed the owner that we would be late for check-out.

Upon arrival at the reception, I apologised and said, "Sorry, my friend was car-sick, that's why we were late."

That's quite a good excuse to use.

We passed through the towns of Aurland, Flåm, Gudvangen and Voss enroute to Bergen. In Aurland, we came across a sign which read, Sentrum (town centre). It was barely a village, since a quick count will reveal just 5 to 6 houses. Whether the town is inhabited is questionable.

Flåm is home to the famous Flåm railway. Nestled in the corner of Aurlandfjord, the 20km journey to the mountain town of Myrdal takes an hour since it involves a steep climb of 860m. The train ride offers spectacular scenery as it tunnels in and out of the forbidding mountains. The price for a return train ride is also spectacularly heart attack inducing. A limited budget meant that we skipped the lure of a rewarding train ride.

Nærøyfjord. Queen Sonja of Norway officiated the opening of this UNESCO World Heritage Sitre.

Sognefjord holds many wonders. Besides being the longest fjord in the world, one of its branches, Nærøyfjord, holds the record for being the narrowest fjord in the world. In fact, it was being inaugurated as an UNESCO World Heritage Site a couple of years back. Situated in the town of Gudvangen, we had no idea how narrow it was since the fjords that we had come across looked more or less the same. We had no way of differentiating between the different fjords except to admire them.

Voss is nothing interesting but a mere big town. In the summer, para-gliding enthusiasts will flood the town for a taste of the action.

As we neared Bergen, traffic increased. Being the second largest city in Norway, a fee is imposed for vehicles entering Bergen. The cheapest rate is a costly 20 Norwegian crowns (S$5) while the most expensive rate is an unbelievably ridiculous 70 Norwegian crowns (S$17.50).

Passing through the gantries, cameras will snap a picture of your licence plate before a bill is sent right to your door-step. Since our car was rented in Sweden, we were spared from exploding our budget.

Our accomodation in Bergen is situated about 25mins by car from the city. It is located on a small island. Getting off the island means having to pay the 70 Norwegian crowns "ERP". Throughout our entire stay in Bergen, we passed through the gantry at least 3 times. Imagine the huge amount of money we'll have to fork out if we need to pay!

Despite the sparsely populated small island, we were still lost. We stopped by a house to ask for directions, where we were greeted by extremely friendly kind folks who offered to call the owner.

As we were waiting for an answer, one of them asked us, "So where do you come from?"

"Taiwan," replied one of them. I was too tired from the long drive from Lærdal that I didn't bother to add Singapore too.

"So you drove all the way from Taiwan to come here?"

That was such an orz answer.

As it turned out, the accomodation was actually a mere 200m away. We had actually drove past the house and missed it entirely.

We had the whole house to ourselves, with the owner's house just behind ours. Despite its small size, everything was comfortably furnished and cosy.

Day 1: Linköping to Lærdal

2006-07-16T14:49:00.000+08:00

Norway is one of the most expensive countries in the world. To give you an idea how expensive it is...

- petrol costs 12 Norwegian crowns per litre (S$3/litre)
- popcorn + coke cost S$20

Upon returning back from Norway, I realised, prices in Sweden are relatively cheaper.

With the 5 of us (me, Hsin-Chu, Yi-Chi, Yee-Chen, Wan-Yu), renting a car will be more cost effective compared to taking a train. Driving offers the option of being extremely flexible in our itinerary.

Expecting prices to be exorbitant in Norway, we bought all the food in Sweden to cook in Norway before driving across the border. Buying over 600 Swedish crowns worth of food, we spent 2hrs in Maxi getting our food supply.

We were supposed to set off at 7.30am but as expected, eventually, we only managed to set off at 8am. A driving distance of around 750km beckoned but everyone was geared up for the trip.

Having driven in Portugal before, I was confident this time round. Scandinavian drivers are one of the best drivers in Europe. That was one of the assuring factors as well.

We stopped somewhere along the road to have our lunch. Sandwich was on the menu and since we had our meals in the car, you can imagine the mess of bread crumbs shrewn around.

Based on advice from friends, we skipped Oslo. They quipped how boring it was so I thought we could save more time by bypassing the Norwegian capital altogether. On top of that, entering Oslo attracted a fee. Hence, we made a detour which allowed us to skip the city.

Driving in Sweden didn't pose much of a problem since it's relatively flat and straight. However, the problem started crawling in as soon as we left Oslo. Roads became more winding as the car snaked through the mountain range. In order to save travelling time, numerous tunnels were built. Norway offers excellent natural scenery. Hence, I wasn't exactly pleased by the vast number of tunnels we had to take. Driving through a 24.5km tunnel, the world's longest, wasn't very appealing.

The only experience driving in snow was derived from Tasmania a few years back. Snow in Norway come in tons. It was totally different. Tyres will slip easily if the car tackles a corner too fast. You can even feel the car drifting around the corner, as tyres skidded on the icy surface. Brakes should be tapped and hard depression should be avoided at all costs.

A frozen lake

Despite the fact that it was already April, snow was still plenty. In some areas, where the atmospheric pressure kept the place freezing cold, lakes and waterfalls were frozen. In some other places, the temperature was warm enough to allow the greenies to start sprouting out in anticipation for spring.

In Sweden, it was dry and cold. In Norway, it was wet and cold. Hence, it made Norway seemed much colder although the temperature gauges suggested otherwise. Coupled with the chill factor, the cold snapped our bones to the core. Luckily, we were able to enjoy the scenery from the comfort of our car. Saved for numerous times, when we had to step out for photos.

We were questioned by the police when we stopped at a bus stop for a rest. One of us was car sick and I suggested pulling over at a bus stop to allow him some time to recuperate. Apparently, someone had called the police, complaining that our car was swaying in and out of the lane. To which I replied, "My friend was car sick."

The police bought that and we were adviced to drive properly. Time to change a tired driver. I took over the driver's seat as soon as the police left.

A cute toilet along the highway. Don't expect any basins inside there!

Night was nearing and sunset was expected at around 8.15pm. It was already 8pm and we were only 95km away from Lærdal, our rest stop for the night. Stopping for a toilet break, we were amazed to find a cute little structure. At first, we thought it was just a small building for housing some farming equipment. It didn't cross our minds that it was a toilet.

The toilet was just a small opening craved out from the ground where all your waste will flow into the river. Since the river was frozen, you could see the yellow trace of urine tainting the snow.

The mountains cast long shadows in the valleys as we proceeded on to Lærdal. Driving with the high beam on was imperative since no street lamps are present. Driving at night was a real tiring affair since the only lights I could only see were my headlights. With my stomach growling at 9pm, I was pushing the car at over 100kmh.

My eyes were getting heavy but the car was going even faster at 120kmh. I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me when I saw 2 dark shadows skipping across the road. I had switched to low beam since there was an oncoming car. Pardoning my courtesy, I flashed my high beam for a brief moment.

2 reindeers!

Seeing my high beam, they were probably scared and they scampered away in the bushes immediately. Kangaroos will simply stare at your oncoming vehicle before meeting a grisly death. Kudos to reindeers, they are much cleverer.

We finally arrived at 9.30pm. Dinner was quick and in no time, we were fast asleep.